Does your pet quake with fear at a lightning flash, run and hide at the clap of thunder, cry and whine when there’s a change in barometric pressure or an electrical charge in the air?

Storm phobia is a common phenomenon among dogs, in particular the herding breeds and hounds who seem genetically prone to the condition.

It is so very difficult to see your beloved pet go through such a tough time, and the episodes can be quite frequent during the spring and summer months.

What can be done to ease their anxiety, especially when storms can come about so quickly and without much advance notice?

The following strategies should be considered to help your storm phobic dog:

1. Behavioral Modification and “Systematic Desensitization”

A dog can learn (with gentle persistence, time, and lots of positive reinforcement) that certain triggers for his/her panic will not necessarily result in a negative experience. Consider purchasing a CD or cassette with storm sounds that you can play intermittently. Reward your dog when he/she is calm in response to the noises. Check out websites such as Canine Lullabies or Through a Dog’s Ear for sources of storm sound CD’s.

Consider creating a soft, dark, noiseless “den” for your pet to retreat to during storms. Note: do not LOCK your pet in this den if your pet’s phobia is severe and they are prone to self-trauma. Extreme panic can lead to your dog hurting himself if he cannot escape.

Make sure that you DO NOT cuddle, console, or reassure your pet when he/she is anxious and in a panic. You may mean well, but your dog may perceive this as a reward for his fearful behavior. On the other hand, NEVER PUNISH him for his fear. It is not his fault and your punishment will only heighten his anxiety and worsen the behavior.

REWARD your pet for calm, non-anxious responses. Give your pet time and stay the course.

2. Anxiety/Storm “Wraps”

The theory behind these wraps is that “swaddling” provides a sense of comfort and safety through continuous neuronal stimulation. The wrap may also simply be a distraction. Visit anxietywrap.com for details.

3. Natural Supplements and “DAP’s”

Herbal remedies such as Sedaplus (valerian and other herbal extracts) possibly provide some relaxing effects on your pet during a storm. Always be vigilant about reading the package and dosing recommendations CAREFULLY. Most herbal supplements are not regulated by the FDA so studies on their safety have not been conducted. DAP’s (Dog Appeasing Pheromones) mimic the natural pheromones a mother dog releases while she nurses her pups. DAP’s are available as room diffusers and collars.

4. Prescription Medications as a Last Resort.

When all of the above strategies have been employed with little to no effect, or your pet’s storm phobia is severe… it’s time to consult with the veterinarian about anxiety reducing prescription medications. The “ol’ stand by” drugs of choice for dealing with storm phobia are phenothiazine tranquilizers (such as acepromazine). While these drugs can be effective sedatives, we often find that by the time the pet is dosed the anxiety centers in the brain have already been triggered and the medication isn’t fully absorbed when it’s maximum effect is needed to be helpful. Perhaps a better tactic is to identify eligible dogs with moderate to severe storm phobia and start them on a non sedating anti-anxiety medication just prior to “storm season” (March-April) and continue it through the season’s end (October-November). Additional fast acting medications such as valium can possibly be added if your pet’s condition is severe. Remember: NEVER give your pet your prescription medications or over-the-counter products without speaking to a veterinarian. Some of these medications can have HARMFUL side effects if used improperly.

Always consider prescription drug therapy as a last resort. Helping your pet to develop behavioral coping strategies provides the best and longest lasting solution.

If you have any additional questions, feel free to consult with our staff.

It may or may not surprise you to hear that the vast majority of our pets are overweight. Numerous factors contribute to weight problems, but it all comes down to two main core issues: our pets are eating too much and not exercising enough.

Now if it were that simple to fix, we’d all have pets at the perfect weight. But often times it’s not so simple. What becomes complex are the reasons why our pets are eating too much and not burning the calories off.

Need some guidance to help your pet be the biggest loser? A lot of times it comes down to a simple decision to stay committed to your pet’s health. Here are some guidelines to help you:

1. Know your pet’s ideal body weight.

Often times most are not aware of what our pet’s healthy weight should be. Some people assume that if their dog is pure-bred they will find the right weight in a book of breed standards, or that all cats should be about the same weight. But what we forget that our pet is an individual, and genetics cause variations in “standards.” Veterinarians often use a body condition score technique to determine if an animal is the appropriate weight. The number on the scale becomes irrelevant… it is a physical assessment. We take into account your pet’s skeletal stature and whether we can visualize or palpate anatomical landmarks such as the ribs or waist. If you are unsure whether your pet is overweight or not, consult with the veterinarian, and we can help you determine if your pet needs to lose weight. Your friends and family are typically NOT an authority on this subject!

2. Feed your pet a wholesome, junk-free diet.

There are diets out there that have simple, high quality, wholesome ingredients and there are diets that have a lot of fillers, chemicals, and dyes added to them. We could spend a whole other blog post discussing the stress of choosing the “perfect” diet for your pet, but for now we’ll simplify things and tell you that there are numerous diets out there that are healthier than others. Unfortunately, the better diets tend to be more expensive, and many of us fall into the trap of buying the more economical grain-filled diets. The extra carbohydrates in these diets go right to the waistline. Flip the bag over and read the ingredient list. Is the first ingredient a high quality protein/meat? Can you read the rest of the ingredient list without having to take a course in chemistry? Can you afford to feed this diet regularly? Does your pet like the diet?

3. Feed the appropriate amount each day. In other words, feed measured portions and have designated mealtimes.

How many of us glance at the empty food bowl as we pass by and think, “Oh, poor Fido needs a refill!” or have a policy of just filling the bowl with a random amount of food and get on with our day? Answer: a lot of us. This “free feeding” method means there can be an excess of calories going into your pet. While some of our furry family members do a good job of self-regulating their hunger and intake, most do not and eat too much. If you know your pet’s ideal body weight (see #1) then you can figure out approximately how much food to feed your pet by using the diet’s feeding guidelines on the back of the bag or by using the manufacturer’s website. If you are adding canned foods to dry, CUT BACK on the dry food amount to compensate. Use a measuring cup, not a coffee can or other unmeasured scoop. KNOW how much food you are putting into the bowl.

4. Your pet should eat alone.

Many of us have more than one pet in the household. And many of us feed our pets together, in separate bowls but in the same room. It’s easier and less demanding to do it this way. The problem is, dogs and cats have social hierarchies and the dominant individuals will often eat their own portion and take more from another’s bowl. One can never gain control over how much food their pet is taking in each day if that pet has access to other portions. As hard as it may be, separating your pets at mealtime is necessary to get control over the situation. Put your pets in separate rooms, shut the door, and give them a good 15 minutes alone with their food.It’s the ONLY way.

Cats that have been acclimated to a “grazing” style of feeding (picking at their food all throughout the day) can still graze if they are the only pet in the household… just set out a measured portion for the day. Cats that live in a multi-cat household need to be gradually converted to portioned meals. It can be done, but change needs to be gradual.

5. Treats and table food mean extra calories, and this means TROUBLE.

We all love giving our pets yummy rewards for good behavior. We love to see them get excited and affectionate about their rewards, and we feel rewarded too. But what we forget is that too much of a “good thing” is a bad thing. Remember that if you are feeding your pet the appropriate amounts of his/her diet (see #3) then you are feeding your pet his/her TOTAL CALORIC REQUIREMENT for the day. Anything extra is just that: EXTRA. Treats tend to be high in calories and fat. That’s what makes them treats. Either compensate by cutting back on the amount of the diet (not by much because this is their NUTRITION source) or increase your pet’s exercise (to be discussed shortly).

Table food, in general, is a no-no. Not only does it add unwanted calories and undesirable begging behaviors, but it can contribute to some serious gastrointestinal ailments in some individuals. Pancreatitis can be a dangerous complication of eating inappropriate foods off the table. Some exceptions to the rule can be made if your pet can handle it: peeled baby carrots, celery and green beans in small amounts can be give as rewards in dieting dogs and their owners who feel that treats are a necessity of life.

If your pet has a serious issue with weight (i.e., obesity), treats should be eliminated until the weight is under control.

6. Exercise is a NECESSITY.

Most of us are very busy and lack the time and energy to devote to exercising our pets. Many of us fall into a bad habit of opening the back door to let our pet outside to eliminate and hope that the little bit of running they do in the backyard will be enough to keep the extra weight off. But your pet is a lot like you and me: if they don’t have structure, a routine, and a bit of conditioning behind it… they would rather curl up on the couch and call it a day. Make a commitment to your pet and yourself by scheduling time every day to get your pet moving. Dogs love to be walked, taken to the park, or love a stroll on the beach. Swimming is a great exercise for those that love the water. Pack a ball or frisbee in the car to get out and play when you go on your adventures. Bring water on hot days… your pet doesn’t sweat and needs to keep cool and hydrated.

If your pet is obese and tires quickly, start small. Start a “training program”… slowly increase the distance over time as your pet’s body becomes stronger and develops better endurance.

Exercising an indoor cat is a challenge… but can be done. Buy fun toys like penlights, balls and fishing poles. Play with your cat and channel their inner hunter to get them moving. Cats are amazing athletes by nature, but lose a lot of that ability when they are not outside chasing after rodents and birds. Try to remember to encourage your cat to exercise too.

7. Ask for help when you need it.

That’s what we’re here for. If you’re doing everything you can and feel like your pet isn’t shedding a single pound, then there might be other issues at hand. Some diseases such as hypothyroidism can decrease metabolism and make weight loss difficult even with appropriate tactics. Lab tests may be recommended if a medical condition is suspected. Sometimes the amount of weight loss recommended is significant, especially if your pet is obese. Prescription diets that are markedly decreased in fat and calories are available if the veterinarian feels this might be a good option in your pets case.

As with people, appropriate and healthy weight loss does not have a quick fix. It is a combination of commitment, proper feeding habits, and healthy exercise. You can do it. Your pet needs you to make that commitment today! The health benefits your pet will reap from your efforts are too numerous to list!

No one likes to admit that arthritis happens to all of our pets as they age. While certain breeds may be genetically predisposed to the wearing away of the spongy cartilage that protects the joints, arthritis can also be the result of previous injuries, infections (such as Lyme Disease and other tick-borne bacteria), or autoimmune diesease such as rheumatoid arthritis or lupus.

This condition can be very painful and debilitating. Pets with arthritis may lose their ability to run, jump, and play. Going upstairs or even going for a daily walk may prove to be too difficult for some. Others may have a constant limp. Some are grumpy, and may even snap when certain areas of their bodies are touched. Some pets even lose their ability to get up and use the bathroom outdoors or in the litterbox, and are prone to accidents inside.

Arthritis is unfortunately not cured, but managed. What can we do to make our pets more comfortable as they face this difficult condition?

Here are some simple strategies to help your arthritic pet feel better:

STRATEGY #1: Lose the “baby fat.”

Did you know that most of our pets are overweight? The vast majority of us have busy lifestyles which leave most of our pets indoors a lot of the day, snoozing in bed or on the couch. We also tend to overindulge our furry family members with calories they don’t tend to burn off effectively. This extra weight puts more pressure and strain on inflamed joints and this means PAIN for your pet. If you are unsure if your pet is overweight, consult with the veterinarian. If your pet is battling the “bulge”, the staff can help discuss strategies with you to help your pet lose weight safely and effectively. Remember that simple weight loss can reduce symptoms drastically, and may also reduce your pet’s need for medications.

STRATEGY #2: Provide adequate types of exercise and physical therapy.

Often what happens when we recognize our pet has arthritis is that we tend to reduce their physical activity to avoid causing them pain. While our intentions are good, two negative consequences tend to develop:

1)Your pet gains weight from the lack of activity and the extra weight causes extra pain.

2) The lack of activity results in lack of circulation to the joints. Circulation actually helps remove inflammation. You may have heard the phrase “You rest, you rust.” This means that after the body has been in one position for a long time, it is stiff and painful to move. Inflammation builds up in the joints and it hurts. So… your pet needs to move to feel better.

The key is providing your pet with “arthritis appropriate” forms of exercise. Heavy running (especially on hard surfaces such as asphalt and concrete) and jumping (including in and out of vehicles and on and off furniture) are NOT recommended. Going up and down stairs should be restricted or prohibited. Depending on your pet’s level of pain and instability, ramps and traction mats may need to be used to help your pet get around the house. Walking, especially on smooth, shock absorbing surfaces such as grass, is typically a good option. Swimming is a great non-impact activity if your pet likes the water. There are also some local facilities that can help provide physical therapy for pets with orthopedic ailments. If you are having difficulty providing adequate exercise for your pet, consult with the veterinarian and a a referral to one of these specialists may be a considered.

Clients will often ask whether “heated beds”, magnets, or other similar items in fancy catalogs are of use. Definitely softer bedding can cushion sore joints, but some pets prefer the cooler, hard surfaces of tile! Heat helps circulation but some pets don’t like it. Be careful with any forms of electrical heat. Burns from heating pads are common and can be very severe.  Magnets have questionable efficacy.

STRATEGY #3: Nourish the cartilage with appropriate supplements.

Once cartilage is lost, it cannot be replaced. However, cartilage can be nourished with the right building blocks while it’s still there. Supplements that active ingredients such as glucosamine, chondroitin, MSM and similar substances contain non-toxic “building blocks” for cartilage and work to enhance its longevity. In addition to fortifying the cartilage, these supplements also work to improve the consistency of joint fluid. This means more mobility and comfort for your pet. There are two key points when using joint supplements:

1) Don’t wait until the symptoms are severe. Start early. If your pet is in the beginning stages of arthritis or if you know your pet is genetically predisposed to arthritis, it’s time to start. Nourishing cartilage that had already worn away does little good.

2) Stay consistent. Just because you start a supplement and a few days later you do not notice an improvement does not mean the supplement isn’t working. Joint supplements are not technically pain relievers, but with time and consistent use inflammation can be reduced. Stick with it.

Supplements come in many forms and some have additional additives such as vitamins, fatty acids and antioxidants:

Some diets have been supplemented with joint supportive additives. Sometimes the amount of additives is not enough, and additional supplementation may be recommended.

STRATEGY #4: Provide an anti-inflammatory pain reliever.

Some cases of arthritis are progressed enough where your pet is showing outward symptoms of pain and discomfort. Discuss the situation with the veterinarian before giving your pet any pain relievers. Some over-the-counter medications can be toxic or dangerous to your pet so please consult with our staff first!! ONE single tablet of Tylenol (acetominophen) can KILL a cat… so PLEASE refrain from “home doctoring” until you’ve talked with a professional first.

Non-steroidal anti-inflammatories (NSAIDs) are typically effective drugs that control arthritis symptoms and improve your pet’s quality of life. They are not without possible side effects, however, so if the veterinarian prescribes these medications to your pet, always report any unusual symptoms such as vomiting, inappetance, lethargy or diarrhea or blood in the stool to our staff should they occur. And if the veterinarian advises that your pet have lab tests done prior to initiating the medication and occasionally to monitor your pet’s liver and kidney function, please follow his/her advice for your pet’s safety.

In certain situations the veterinarian may add another type of pain reliever if the NSAID is not enough.

STRATEGY #5: Consider the non-traditional, alternative therapies.

Our approach to managing arthritis in our patients has always been rooted in “traditional” methods. But clients will often ask about “non-traditional” approaches such as acupuncture, herbal/holistic treatments, veterinary chiropractors, and even more recently stem cell therapy and other treatments on the horizon. Your pet’s health and comfort are our primary concern. We are open to discussing all options for the best care for your pet as long as the methods are safe. Consultations with other professionals who provide alternative therapies is never discouraged, and we have good resources available to us should you desire to explore these options for your pet.

Feel free to speak with our staff for any additional questions!

Many of our pets have to deal with a very common and frustrating problem each spring and summer… itchy and unhappy skin. Many of the pollens, other allergens, and biting insects that provoke sensitive skin seem to be in abundance this time of year, so it seems like a good time to discuss some tactics to employ in our efforts to fight that urge to scratch.

TACTIC #1: Use flea control. Maybe even more than one type.

We know, we know. “But I don’t see any fleas on my pet.” Or “FiFi has never had a flea on her in her entire life.” Or “I treat the yard, so fleas are not the issue.” Well… fleas are a lot smarter than that, and believe us, they are out there. And consider this: one flea bite in a dog or cat with allergies is all it takes to send the skin into a pretty bad flare-up. Remember that you don’t always see the fleas… they’re fast, they can jump, and they can hide. Protect your pet with a topical flea adulticide like Frontline Plus during flea season, and even better, concurrently use an oral flea control product like Comfortis, Trifexis, or Sentinel to control the flea population all year round. Brewer’s yeast and garlic pills don’t work. Take fleas out of the equation and use flea control.

TACTIC #2: Feed a high quality diet with less preservatives and fillers.

More and more pets are becoming allergic to certain ingredients in their foods. These allergies are reflected in the skin. Highly processed foods have ingredients such as dyes and other chemicals that the body has to work harder to process and eliminate. The body may actually react to some of those products and the result can be inflammation in the skin and GI tract. Yes, the “wholesome” diets with higher quality ingredients are more expensive. But so are veterinary bills when you have to bring your pet in for evaluations and treatments for allergies. Give a simple, whole ingredient diet a try for 8-10 weeks to see if your pet’s condition may improve.

TACTIC #3: Consider using a skin supplement and topical ceramides.

Omega fatty acids that are found in natural sources such as fish seem to have properties that help improve skin integrity. These fatty acids also help naturally reduce inflammation. These supplements are available in numerous products and in different forms… capsules, liquids, and even added to treats. If your pet has sensitive skin, omegas should be given as a daily supplement.

Recently topical fatty acids and ceramides have been introduced to the market for pets with allergic skin. Allerderm is a liquid product that is applied to the skin much like one would apply monthly topical flea control. It is non-toxic and can be applied directly to affected skin, and is intended to help the healing process and protect the skin from further inflammation.

TACTIC #4: Use hypoallergenic, soothing shampoos, conditioners, and sprays.

As a general rule, bathing your pet too frequently is not recommended. A lot of products tend to dehydrate the skin and further aggravate sensitive skin. There are specialized products, however, that can help make your pet’s unhappy skin feel better. Certain shampoos have soothing ingredients such as colloidal oatmeal and even topical hydrocortisone. Conditioners and leave-in sprays/humectants can help extend the benefits of the treatment beyond bathtime. Avoid shampoos with insecticides (flea and tick killing chemicals) and perfumes or fragrances. These are ingredients that irritate and dehydrate the skin.

TACTIC #4: Consider trying oral antihistamines.

Much like treatments for people with allergies, antihistamines that are in the same family of Benedryl can sometimes help reduce inflammation and the urge to itch. While not typically as effective in dogs as in people, these types of drugs have less side effects and are cost effective. Over-the-counter Benedryl may be considered but consult the veterinarian for proper dosing before administering this medication to your pet. Prescription forms of antihistamines are available in our pharmacy and can be filled if the veterinarian feels this would be a good option.

TACTIC #5: The veterinarian may need to prescribe the “big guns.”

Let’s face it. There are some pets out there who become so miserable with itchy, red, infected skin that they can’t sleep and spend most of their day trying to scratch off the skin from their bodies. It’s no way to be. There are effective drugs called glucocorticosteroids that basically turn the immune system off for a bit so the inflammation stops. While these drugs can provide significant relief, we try not to use them too frequently. It isn’t wise to turn the immune system “down” or “off” for too long… your pet’s body needs it for protection. In addition, some of these drugs can cause side effects such as excessive thirst, appetite, and increased urination. Over protracted use these drugs can decrease liver function and may increase your pet’s risk for diabetes mellitus. Veterinarians should always prescribe these drugs with care and use them judiciously in cases where they are warranted. This is why the veterinarian my discuss other options first, instead of the quick fix “allergy shot.”

Some of these drugs are available in topical sprays if there are just small spots on your pet’s body that needs addressing, and the side effects are drastically reduced.

Another drug called Atopica (cyclosporine) is available with less side effects for dogs that have severe cases of allergies and need to be on stronger medication for extended periods of time. It can be costly, especially for larger patients, but preferable to using steroidal options.

TACTIC #6: See a board certified veterinary dermatologist for tough cases!

We are blessed to have a very great group of dermatologists here locally for cases that are very difficult to control. Remember, your pet is an individual like you and me and may need a specialized plan of action if his/her allergies are particularly hard to control. The dermatologist can perform some specialized tests to try to determine your pet’s specific allergies and develop hyposensitization injections to reduce your pet’s reactivity to those allergens over time. Appointments with the dermatologist are by referral only. Discuss your pet’s case with the veterinarian to see if a consultation with the specialist is the next logical step.

With tactics in hand and employed, we hope your pet has a comfortable and not-so-itchy summer! If you have further questions, consult our staff or schedule an appointment.

“Tis the season again.

As things warm up outside, the critters that like to prey upon our furry family members are warming up too. We live in an area where fleas and ticks are abundant, and these parasites can cause all sorts of problems for our pets. Fleas can cause serious skin irritations and make your pet feel miserable (and lose their hair, too!). And we all know that ticks can cause serious illnesses such as Lyme Disease and Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever. So, let’s go over what options we have on our hospital shelf to help protect your pet from these parasites.

Ticks

Ticks are not insects. They belong to the spider/mite family. In a nutshell, they are harder to kill than fleas. This means there are less products available that effectively control ticks, so your choices are unfortunately limited.

The most popular product we dispense for tick control is the topical Frontline Plus. The active ingredient is fipronil, and is a safe and reliable option for your pet. One thing that pet owners should know is that ticks can still attach to the skin (and sometimes be found crawling around on the fur) even if the pet has had Frontline applied. However, if the product has been applied to the skin properly, once the tick attaches, the active ingredient is taken into the tick’s system and the tick eventually dies. The manufacturer says that death occurs before the tick gets a chance to regurgitate any harmful bacteria into the pet’s body. Frontline is also considered waterproof, but studies consistently show that if an animal is in water regularly (like a lot of our beach bum doggies), the product does in fact diminish in strength. The good news is that it can often be safely applied again before 30 days in certain cases. Consult the veterinarian before doing anything other than what the label instructs.

The Preventic Collar is probably the most effective product available for tick control. It actually prevents attachment and kills the tick rapidly. The big drawback to this collar is its active ingredient. It is called amitraz, and while it is very effective at killing ticks it can be harmful to your pet too. It may absolutely NOT BE USED IN CATS. And if you have a multi-pet household where your critters (and very young children) have a lot of close contact or like to chew on each other’s collars or bodies, this product may be harmful. Discuss this option with the veterinarian before selecting this product to make sure it is a safe choice.

We have one additional product on our shelf that provides some tick control: topical Revolution. Revolution controls numerous parasites, and really is a great product…. BUT the active ingredient selamectin only controls certain species of ticks. And unfortunately it does not seem to be very effective against the species that are more known to carry disease. So we rarely specifically recommend this product for tick control.

There are some rumors circulating that the new oral product Trifexis controls ticks for up to two weeks after dosing. At this time, the label does not indicate this ability, and therefore we cannot recommend it for this use. Perhaps more studies will help indicate whether this will be an effective option in the future.

Fleas

Fleas are everywhere, and are so effective at reproducing and infesting the environment. Whatever product you choose for your pet, make sure that you are consistent. Most failures in flea control stem from the fact that some of us assume our pet only needs one or two treatments and they are done. Fleas are insects that have numerous stages of development, and some of those stages are resistant to certain chemicals. So while you’re treating the adults, you may be missing eggs or larvae that are just waiting to hatch after the treatment wears off. So the best advice is to treat EVERY MONTH, and even better year round.

Right now our most effective product for flea control is called spinosad. It is available in two forms on our shelf: Trifexis and Comfortis. Trifexis is new oral medication FOR DOGS that prevents heartworms, and also controls hookworms, whipworms and roundworms. In addition to controlling these internal parasites, it effectively kills adult fleas for 30 days at a time, without the worries of applying medications to the skin or them washing off. Comfortis is strictly an oral flea control product for dogs. Both products come in the form of a pill that must be given with a full meal for proper absorption. Neither protect against ticks.

Sentinel is an oral heartworm preventative for dogs like Trifexis, but the active ingredient for flea control is called lufenuron. This non-toxic chemical does not kill fleas, but is a very effective preventative. It works by preventing flea eggs from hatching. Over time and consistent use, this product is extremely successful for pets that stay restricted to one environment or household, because the fleas are not successful in replenishing themselves. It may be less effective, however, if your dog leaves his/her environment and can be bitten by live adult fleas from another source. If your dog is flea allergic and gets severe skin reactions from flea bites, we recommend a product that kills adult fleas instead, or you can use a topical product in addition to the Sentinel if you know when your dog might be exposed. Sentinel has no activity against ticks.

Topical products such as Frontline Topspot and Revolution are also labeled for monthly flea control. Frontline kills adult fleas but not right away. It is not unusual to see live fleas scurrying around a bit even after application, but they are slower and do not feed or reproduce well if the product is applied properly. Revolution is also similarly effective… some fleas can break through and feed, but the product also controls heartworm, ear mites, and other internal parasites. Both Frontline and Revolution are available for both dogs and cats.

For rapid or daily flea control, we carry a product called Capstar. The active ingredient nitenpyram kills adult fleas within 30 minutes of dosing and works for 24 hours. This product is perfect for critters going on a visit somewhere such as your friend’s flea infested house or as a preventative if going to the groomer or the vet hospital. Capstar is available for both dogs and cats.

So there is a quick overview of our flea and tick control options. More specific questions about each product can be directed to our staff and we would be more than happy to assist you!

“What’s up with my pup?? He keeps coughing like he’s trying to bring up a hairball….”

There’s a strong possibility that if you purchased your puppy from a pet store or adopted from a local shelter your pup may be experiencing the following symptoms: a runny nose, an occasional wet sneeze, and a hacking cough that sounds like an attempt to bring something up. If this description fits, then your puppy may have a case of infectious tracheobronchitis… otherwise known as “kennel cough.”

What is Kennel Cough?

Infectious tracheobronchitis is extremely common, especially in shelters, pet shops, boarding kennels and even veterinary hospitals. It is an infection caused by a virus (usually parainfluenza although other viruses can play a role), AND  a bacteria (usually Bordetella bronchiseptica) that infect the nasal cavity, trachea (windpipe) and upper airways. The infection tends to cause a significant amount of congestion, causing the puppy to have a productive cough. Owners will often report that their puppy is trying to bring something up, but with no success. In fact, they are bringing something up and are swallowing the evidence.

The virus is very highly contagious. This is why it’s such a problem in enclosed environments where multiple pups are housed close together. When an infected puppy coughs or sneezes, the virus aerosolizes into the air and easily infects other individuals close by. In shelters and pet shops, puppies are often handled by multiple individuals who inadvertently spread the germs on their hands and clothes. By nature, puppies are more susceptible to infection because of their immature immune systems.

Here are some facts you should know about infectious tracheobronchitis:

1) Symptoms develop within 2-14 days after the puppy is exposed to the germs.

2) Most symptoms last about 14-20 days in typical cases.

3) An infected animal can shed the bacteria for as long as 6-14 WEEKS. This is not a type-o. Antibiotics DO NOT always reduce the time of bacterial shedding.

How is kennel cough treated?

Most cases of kennel cough are what doctors call “self limiting.” This means that the symptoms are mild enough that the puppy just requires supportive care such as a nutritious diet, plenty of fresh water, a warm environment, and a humidifier/vaporizer to help loosen congestion.

More severe cases may require antibiotics, expectorants to loosen congestion, and sometimes bronchodilators to open up congested airways. Rarely, infected pups can develop pneumonia which can be life threatening. Those pups typically require hospitalization to receive fluids and medications through an IV. Sometimes they may also need nebulization treatments and oxygen supplementation. The veterinarian will help determine what is needed based on the puppy’s physical exam findings and history.

One thing that the veterinarians end up stressing to owners with kennel cough puppies is that even with treatment, your pup will still likely cough. This does NOT necessarily mean your puppy is not improving, or that the infection is not being treated properly. The congestion that the infection causes needs to be cleared from the body, and coughing is the main mechanism by which this gets done. Cough suppressants are only used in patients that are very uncomfortable from excessive hacking and NEVER used in patients with suspected pneumonia.

ALWAYS notify the veterinarian if your puppy:

1) loses his/her appetite or stops drinking

2) seems overly sluggish or lethargic

3) is having trouble breathing (rapid, shallow breaths or you can see the belly move with each breath).

How is kennel cough prevented?

True prevention can only be obtained through isolation of your puppy from other dogs. When this cannot be achieved, vaccination (the “Bordetella vaccine”) is recommended. If you have purchased your puppy from a pet store, it is likely the pup has alrerady received a kennel cough vaccination. So, why then, could your pup have an infection?

Kennel cough vaccinations cannot and do not prevent infection. They only help to decrease the severity of the disease (much like flu vaccines in people). There are two types of vaccines available. The injectable requires two doses, 3-4 weeks apart. Protection typically develops within 1-2 weeks.

The intranasal vaccine is considered by most to be the best option because only one dose is needed and protection develops within 3-4 days of vaccination. There are a couple of drawbacks, however. First, your pet can actually SHED VIRUS that can cause infection in other dogs for up to 72 hours after vaccination. Secondly, some pups might actually develop some symptoms of kennel cough themselves for a few days.

If your puppy will be kenneled regularly, a participant at dog shows/agility trails, or a “frequent flier” at a grooming facility, the Bordetella vaccination should be administered every 6 months. Ask the veterinarian about your pup’s recommended protocol.

THE BIG POINTS:

1) If your pup has been diagnosed with kennel cough, make sure it is eating, drinking, playful, and breathing comfortably. If not, CONTACT OUR OFFICE.

2) Provide a humidifier/vaporizer in the room where your puppy sleeps, especially if in the colder winter months. Consider bringing the pup into the bathroom while you take a steamy shower to help ease breathing. Keep your puppy’s nostrils free of debris.

3) If the veterinarian prescribes medications for your pup, make sure to follow directions and administer ALL antibiotics for the ENTIRE time, even if symptoms resolve before then.

3) If your puppy has an infection, please realize that he/she is CONTAGIOUS for up to 3 MONTHS. Do your best to isolate your puppy from other dogs and do not take him/her to public places such as the groomer, boarding kennel, pet stores, doggie parks, or doggie day care.

4) Expect coughing (especially after excitement and exercise) for up to 8 WEEKS. Severe coughing should be re-evaluated by the veterinarian. Minor coughing is expected during the recovery process.

5) Vaccines DO NOT PREVENT INFECTION. They help reduce the severity of symptoms.

If you have further questions, feel free to contact the office and our staff will be happy to assist you!

Everyone here at Bay Beach hopes everyone is enjoying their holidays… and we wish all of our patients and their owners a happy, healthy 2010.

We have big news to share with everyone. Starting noon New Years Eve, we will be offering veterinary emergency and urgent care services after our regular business hours and holidays. A veterinarian and staff will be on duty to receive cases that require attention after-hours and on weekends. This means that there will be no need of transferring critical care cases to other emergency facilities as we have had to do in the past.

We also were notified recently that Bay Beach has been selected as Veterinary Economics’ 2010 Veterinary Hospital of the Year for hospital design. This is a highly prestigious nationwide award that features a hospital for it’s innovative design. We are all very proud of the veterinary community’s recognition of Dr. Honaker’s hard work in designing our beautiful facility.

Bay Beach will now be offerering the Canine Influenza Vaccine for our canine patients that are potentially at higher risk for exposure to the virus.

Canine Influenza is a repiratory virus most commonly seen in dogs in frequent ”high contact” situations… kennels, shelters, veterinary hospitals, dog shows, grooming facilities, and “doggie day care” scenarios.  While the vaccine will not be considered a “core” vaccine in our protocol, the veterinarian will likely discuss the vaccine with you if he/she feels that it is a good option based on your pet’s background or current lifestyle.

For more complete information, check out the vaccine manufacturer’s information page:

  http://www.intervet.com/news/2009-06-23-new-vaccine-from-intervet-schering-plough-animal-health-is-first-for-canine-influenza-virus.aspx

And for more information regarding Canine Influenza, check out the latest information provided by the A.V.M.A. (American Veterinary Medical Association):

www.avma.org/public_health/influenza/canine_bgnd.asp

If you’ve visted your local pet store lately, you might experience what I like to call “product overload.” With shelves and shelves of different products all claiming to be the best diet available, it makes what seems to be a simple decision into a fit of anxiety waiting to happen.

We all want the best nutrition for our pet, so they not only grow, but thrive. Since all of these foods claim to be the best, which is the absolute best one?

Dogs are individuals, just like you and me. Some by virtue of their genetics or breed, may be prone to obesity. Some may have sensitive skin or may develop food allergies, and some may have special nutritional needs based on their individual health status. Some of these things we don’t know until they start to show problems with the food that they are eating… sort of like a trial and error process.

So when it comes to recommending the “ultimate” diet or the “best” brands, the answer is “it depends.” Here is what we DO know:

You should feed your pup a diet that is meat-based instead of grain-based. While dogs are considered omnivores (both meat and plant eaters), proteins from meat are the basics for good nutrition for your dog. So when selecting a diet, turn that package around and read that ingredient list. It should have a meat source listed as its FIRST ingredient.

Avoid diets that have a lot of artificial colors, flavors, synthetic preservatives and fillers. We usually find that the more colorful the diet, the less true nutritional value it has. This seems contradictory… you know, the cool diets that have all those bright colors like vegetables should be healthy, right? Not really.

Here is a brief list (in no particular order) of some of the more reputable dog food manufacturers and their websites which can give you more detailed information about their line of products. If your diet of interest is not listed here it DOES NOT mean the diet is poor quality or not recommended. If you have specific questions regarding a diet, ask the veterinarians.

Royal Canin (www.royalcanin.us)

Solid Gold (www.solidgoldhealth.com)

Nutro (www.nutroproducts.com)

Innova (www.naturapet.com)

Wellness (www.wellnesspetfood.com)

Hill’s (www.hillspet.com)

Iams (www.iams.com)

So, how do you know if the diet you selected is a good one for your pet? After your pet has been eating the diet for about a month or so, ask yourself the following questions:

1) How does my pet’s skin and coat look? Is he/she itchy, flaky, greasy?

2) Are my pet’s bowel movements solid and regular?

3) Is my pet at his/her optimal weight?

4) Does my pet FEEL good? Is he/she energetic? Playful? Or sluggish?

5) Does my pet eat the food readily or seem disinterested at mealtimes?

If you have a negative response to one or more of the above questions it might be time to reconsider your pet’s diet. DO NOT FORGET that treats and table food COUNT. Do not necessarily blame the dog food if you are feeding other things that might contribute to problems. First, cut the extras and reevaluate in a couple more weeks.

What about the extras? Should you add vitamin or mineral supplements? Fish oil? A raw egg?

Many seem to think that adding extra vitamins, minerals, and other things will make their pet healthier. The truth is, if you are feeding your dog a good quality, premium dog food, the correct ratios of all of those things are already  in there. You may just be putting more into the body that it will have to eliminate because it can’t use it. There are definitely circumstances in which we might suggest a supplement for your pet. But these are generally circumstances in which we’ve determined your pet needs it due to an illness or deficiency. If your dog is in good health, a good quality diet is all he/she needs!

Back in July of 2007 the local canine rescue organization called K9 New Life brought an approximately 6 month old Boston Terrier-Bulldog mix into our practice for an evaluation. He had been turned into Norfolk Animal Control by his previous owners for having birth defects that were too cost prohibitive for the owners to pursue correction. K9 New Life took him in.

On first evaluation the puppy was small for his age, and was experiencing intermittent head tremors. He had a large, bulging umbilical hernia on his belly. His previous medical records indicated that earlier that month he had been experiencing some gastrointestinal problems. His belly seemed to be painful, and he walked with a hunch. Going to the bathroom was difficult for him. The previous veterinarian took X-rays and noticed an abnormality… part of his intestines seemed to be in his chest! He was then referred to a surgical specialist for evaluation and diagnosed with a periocardio-peritoneal diaphragmatic hernia.

Put simply, this puppy’s intestines and abdominal organs were moving forward through a hole in his diaphragm (the muscle that divides the chest from the abdomen). Not only that, the intestines were moving into the thin sac that surrounds the heart,  making it difficult for his heart to beat! He was experiencing pain and difficulty going to the bathroom because his intestines were getting squeezed and twisted in such a small space, and digestion was difficult. On top of all that, he was born with a hole in his belly wall where his umbilical cord was attached to mom when he was still in her womb. Structures within his belly were also protruding through this defect. Poor guy!

This puppy’s only chance for a normal life rested with surgical correction of these birth defects. On 7/6/07, Dr. Key performed surgery to repair his problems. She was able to retract the intestines that moved into his chest back through the hole they moved through, and sewed the hole shut. In addition, she endeavored to correct the defect in his abdomen where his umbilical cord was.

The puppy recevered well from surgery, but had to say in our hospital for about a week. During this period, one of our assistants, Terri Whitlock, bonded with the pup… and she agreed to take him home in the evenings so he could get a taste of home life instead of hospital life. And as they say… “that was all she wrote,” because pretty instantly she knew he belonged in the busy household with 2 kids and several other pets.

Her 3 year old named the puppy “Sullivan” after the character from the movie Monsters, Inc, but everyone calls the little dude “Sully.” He has a face only his mother (and everyone else he comes across) could love. While his umbilical hernia recurred, it remains small enough not to be a threat to him, and he lives a very happy life being adored by his wonderful family. He may not have been born perfect, but he sure seems to be a perfect addition to the Whitlock household.

And here he is, putting on his best smile of gratitude for those who gave him the chance! :