Author: Heidi Thompson, DVM

This is an important discussion. Did you know… up to 14% of the human population has a parastic infection from a dog or a cat? Most of these infections do not cause serious consequences, but some of them CAN. This phenomenon is called zoonosis. That’s why it is so important to do our part not only to protect our pets, but ourselves as well.

Dogs can be infected with many different types of parasites. But to simplify things, I usually break them up into two main categories: 1) INTERNAL (parasites that infect the INSIDE of the body) and 2) EXTERNAL (parasites that infect the OUTSIDE of the body).  There is a fabulous website created by the Companion Animal Parasite Council (www.petsandparasites.org) that covers the basic details and descriptions of the major parasites that affect pets here in the U.S. For those of you who would like to know more, check this website out for more information.

Let’s talk about the big internal parasites that affect dogs here in Tidewater, Virginia (click on the name to get an overview and description):

1) Heartworms

2) Roundworms

3) Hookworms

4) Whipworms

5) Tapeworms

6) Coccidia

7) Giardia

On your first visit with your puppy, we will likely recommend that you already start a preventative that you should administer once a month, year round for internal parasite control. These preventatives are either formulated like a treat your puppy takes orally, or a product that you apply topically to his/her skin every 30 days. Your puppy’s weight will change over the course of several visits, so we will weigh your pup each time and make sure the dosage is correct. The following is a list of the different types of preventatives we stock in our pharmacy. If you click on the item, it will direct you to the manufacturer’s website for details on each product. Please keep in mind that these products are PRESCRIPTION only. You cannot purchase these items in the stores, even specialty pet stores.

1) Interceptor

2) Sentinel

3) Heartgard Plus

4) Revolution

As of May 2009 we still carry some stock of Iverhart Max and Advantage Multi. However as soon as our inventory is depleted, we do not plan on re-stocking these items. See a staff member for details if you have questions.

Now, on to the common EXTERNAL parasites in dogs. Click on the item for a general overview:

1) Fleas

2) Ticks

3) Ear Mites

4) Demodectic Mange

5) Sarcoptic Mange (a.k.a. “Scabies”)

Products we carry for control of external parasites are listed below. Click on the item for manufacturer’s details on their website. These products will vary some with respect to which parasites they control. Details are available on the respective website or feel free to ask questions during your visit.

1) Advantage

2) Frontline

3) Preventic Collar

4) Revolution

If you decide to go with a product purchased at a store,  BE CAREFUL. These products may have insecticides that are NOT safe for puppies, and can be potentially FATAL to cats. WE will be sure to give you a general overview of when it’s safe to start your pup on flea and tick contol and what products are the most effective.

A final word about holistic approaches to parasite control. Over the years I’ve received many questions about whether things such as yeast, garlic, and black walnut are effective remedies for parasites. The bottom line is… they are not. While I respect the attempt to avoid excessive use of chemical products in ourselves and our pets, the potential consequences of parasitic infections in your pet and people pose too much risk. Keep your pet protected with the products with effective and safe records.

Aaaaaah. The BIG question. Don’t we all wish they came home and instinctively knew not to have accidents on our carpets? But, alas…. they do not. We need to teach them how it’s done.

The premise of this discussion is based on two general facts: 1) puppies are creatures of habit, and 2) puppies need to feel that there is something in it for them to do it the way you want them to. If you keep these two principles in mind, the process of housebreaking typically makes sense and falls into place nicely.

The first big step in housebreaking is to create a ritual. You need to do the same things in the same way every day for a while. Here’s an example. You want your puppy to potty outside in the backyard. First, you need to set a schedule that will stay the same over the next several days. Take your puppy outside every 3 hours or so to  the same spot, and develop a short command like “Go Potty.” When your puppy is successful at eliminating there, act VERY happy (ecstatic, perhaps). Give your puppy lots of verbal praise and if your puppy is very food motivated, provide a small, tasty yummy IMMEDIATELY after your puppy eliminates. It’s important that this reward comes RIGHT AFTER pottying… if you wait until they come inside they might not remember why they are being rewarded. You are trying to create a positive association with the act of pottying outside. Repeat process. Repeat again. And again! Your puppy begins to see a pattern… if “A” happens, then “B” happens, then “C.”  They can predict the outcome of their actions (i.e., “If I potty in the grass,  then I get a smile, a pat on the head, and a yummy.”) The next thing you know, they WANT to potty outside. Creatures of habit!

Now, probably the BIGGEST mistake people tend to make during the training process is when the puppy is INSIDE. Many make the assumption that if their puppy just eliminated outside, they are “good-to-go” for a while. The pup is brought inside and allowed to roam about the house or even just a room without direct supervision while the owner goes about his/her business. Then all of a sudden… SURPRISE! An “oopsie” is found on the carpet and the pup is long gone. Frustration settles in as you grab that carpet cleaner for the fiftieth time. Didn’t you JUST take puppy outside?

My typical response to this lament is this: if a human infant just soiled his/her diaper, would you wait a couple of hours before you put another diaper back on? I know I didn’t! Until you are fairly confident you have established a good routine with the puppy, you need to see the signs that the pup understands that he/she is supposed to go outside (holding it for a few hours, crying at the door, etc). Until then, make NO assumptions.

So if we are not diapering our puppies, what do we do to keep them from having accidents around the house?

Now comes the crate discussion. Yes, we are all advocates of crate training. The crate provides a safe haven for your pup (much like a crib or a playpen does for a small child) that instinctively resembles the snug quarters of a den for pups in the wild. Puppies who are used to a routine involving the use of a crate typically do not want to soil their safe spot. If you make the crate a postive place (in other words, you DON’T use the crate as a place where your puppy is punished or banished after naughty behavior), most pups don’t mind the crate at all. IN FACT, many will voluntarily seek out their crate as a place of rest when the door is left open.

If you are available to provide your puppy with direct supervision (meaning your puppy is in line of your vision), let your puppy roam and explore indoors. The only effective time to reprimand a pup for eliminating inside the house is WHEN YOU CATCH THEM IN THE ACT. If he starts to posture, clap your hands or stomp your feet to get his attention and let out a firm “NO.” Pick the pup up, and take him outside and go through your outdoor routine. NEVER use any form of physical punishment such as hitting, smacking with a newspaper, or rubbing their nose in the soiled area. This could terrify your pup and contribute to future behavioral problems. Get their attention, use a firm voice, and take them to the area where they are supposed to be. When they are successful: PRAISE, PRAISE, PRAISE. Eventually, your pup will get this message in their brain: “Happy and yummy when I go outside, but stern and grumpy if I go inside. Better go outside!!!” BE CONSISTENT in the message you’re trying to send.

Your puppy is an individual like you and me. No two are exactly the same. This means that they can have different learning curves… some pick up on the jist of things very quickly, and others…. well, they might test your resolve. Stick with the plan and try your hardest to remain positive. Follow the basic guidelines and it WILL happen.

Remember the BIG points:

1)YES, get a CRATE! It ISN’T cruel (unless you never take them out)! It should be big enough for your pup to comfortably turn around and stretch, but that’s it. Large breed pups that have a lot of growing to do may need a space divider if you have purchased the larger size for them to grow into. If the crate is too large, they won’t be bothered if they soil in there.

2)Notice how there was no reference to puppy pads or paper above. In a general sense, I’m not a fan. If your goal is to train your puppy to go outside, then take them out there. Small pups in cold weather will do fine on short outings… besides, now you can have a legitimate reason to go buy a cute winter outfit for him or her!

3)Develop a schedule/routine that you can stick to. Do it the same way every day. Yes, it’s hard if you work (and even if you don’t). If you need help, ask for it (a friend, a neighbor, etc). You have a baby now and you’re trying to do a good job raising it.

4) Remember the little cues that help remind your puppy what he/she is supposed to do: use a short verbal command (auditory), and take your puppy to the same spot where they went before (olfactory). Have a special yummy and lots of kind words ready to reward your pup when they are successful.

5) Try not to give your pup opportunities to fail. If you can’t keep a close eye on him, go ahead and crate him (and be sure to be positive about the crate). If you can supervise him, only reprimand if you catch him in the act. Otherwise, just clean up the spot with a good cleaner and hope to catch him next time.

6) Slowly expand your pup’s independence as he gains your trust. Challenge him with longer unsupervised spells. If an accident occurs, just step back a bit and stay consistent.

7) Most pups can “survive” (i.e. “hold it”) through the night by 8-10 weeks. Start challenging your pup at that time so you are not stuck developing a habit where your pup EXPECTS that you’ll be doing this the rest of his life.

STAY STRONG, STAY POSITIVE, STAY CONSISTENT, and may the Force be with you!

Author: Heidi Thompson, DVM

So I thought I’d start a series of blog entries covering some of the most frequently asked questions people ask when they bring their puppy in for that very first doctor’s visit. It is such an exciting time… bringing that cute little bundle of fur home… and then all of a sudden it hits you. This can be hard work! It’s like being a parent all over again (or for the first time, in some cases). The questions and concerns come pouring out. Hopefully this will be of some help if we don’t get a chance to cover everything during the office visit.

My tidbits of advice may vary slightly from the other doctors… but I’m sure we’re basically on the same page.

It might surprise many to hear that probably THE most frequently asked question I get is: “How often can I bathe my puppy?”

The answer I give is probably more simplistic than you would expect: “When he/she needs it.” If your puppy is dirty or has soiled on itself, it needs a bath or cleaning, even if you gave one yesterday or even earlier in the day. I’m not as much concerned about frequency as I am about what products you use to bathe them. Puppies can be a lot like human infants in that their skin is new and sensitive. Shampoos with heavy chemicals such as perfumes and insecticides can be very drying and irritating. Frequent bathing with these types of shampoos can cause skin rashes and discomfort.

There are, of course, numerous shampoos out there. I am not familiar with all of them, so I tend to recommend choosing a product based on these simple principles: no added fragrances, no insecticides (i. e. flea and tick shampoos or dips), and as hypoallergenic and natural as possible. A shampoo I particularly like is called HyLyt, made by DVM Pharmaceuticals. It’s soap-free, hypoallergenic, and has emollients for moisturizing. Remember that spot cleanings work very nicely if your puppy has only a localized area that needs help. A wet washcloth is great for feet and the hind area. Save the big baths for the big messes.

Some people just HAVE to hear a basic time-frame for bathing. The average dog probably gets a bath once every 2 weeks. But remember… breeds vary widely with repect to their haircoat and skin types. Some dogs have ultra-sensitive skin, some need a lot of brushing and regular haircuts, some are prone to certain skin conditions and ear infections. Get to know your dog… read a book about the breed or ask a groomer you trust with experience.

So… how ’bout those nails? Just mentioning nail trimming sends certain people into a mini- panic attack. If you don’t feel comfortable trimming nails and you don’t think you ever will…. that’s okay. Let us know and we can schedule regular nail trimmings at the office or you can schedule regular appointments with a groomer. Upon your request we are happy to demonstrate how to trim your puppy’s nails during one of your visits. Puppies should have their nails trimmed regularly… typically about every 10-14 days. They grow quickly! Always handle your puppy’s feet and toes with lots of encouragement and praise. My biggest rule of thumb : Less is more. You can always go back and trim a little more later if you didn’t get enough. But if you cut too much off…. OUCH! And then your puppy thinks nail trimming is a painful experience every time. Keep a little yummy handy to let your puppy know how proud you are of him/her for cooperating. Good experiences build on each other and result in a pet who thinks nail trimming is just a part of the routine.

We’re happy to announce that this weekend, April 18-19, we will be moving in to the new facility! Finally! (Insert applause.) We would like to thank all of our clients and their pets for their patience and understanding during this whole process. The parking situation has been trying (and messy), but everyone’s tolerance will hopefully pay off soon as we wait for the next big step… saying good-bye to the old facility and hello to a brand new, spacious parking lot.
On Monday, April 20th we will be closed for appointments. We need this day to organize and prepare ourselves for running things smoothly in the new building. If your pet has a medical emergency, please contact Tidewater Animal Emergency Center (see our home page). Thank you so much for being patient with us as we work to better serve you and your pets!

We have been very excited about the many changes we’re going through here in the beginning of 2009. As many of you know, we are moving into a brand new, state-of-the-art facility in the beginning of April. Dr. Honaker and the staff have worked very hard to design and oversee the construction of this project… it’s been a long process but the end result is absolutely amazing. We are looking forward to the move in about 4 weeks and are very excited about all of the improvements that we will be able to share with our clients and their pets.

We’re also very excited about our new and updated website. Our mission here at Bay Beach is to provide the highest standard of care for our patients… and that means sharing as many of our resources as we can with our clients. Our goal is to use this blog as a source of important information we want to share with you and our community in an effort to give you the tools necessary to provide for your pet’s best and healthiest life. Look here for updated information about various topics… including some of the newest products and treatments available, interesting cases that we may share with you (and can learn from), and a whole variety of other tidbits that our staff members feel that you and your pet may benefit from. Not only the doctors will participate in this project… our staff is a bounty of experience and has quite a bit of wonderful information they can share with you. So keep tuning back in regularly to see if we’re talking about something that might be of interest to you… and of course, your pet!